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Four people from Corona: Marie, Carmela, Omar, Irene.
Mario Balotelli broke down Germany – Germany! – on Thursday.

It was compelling viewing at the center-of-the-Italian universe, Mama’s of Corona, Queens, surrounded by antipasto and cannolis and friends.

Three Italophiles – a local hero named Minaya plus a Blum and a Vecsey -- watched Balotelli grow in stature before our eyes. 

As soon as the big dude blasted his second goal against what had been the strongest-looking team in the Euros, his inner knucklehead could not resist, and he whipped off his jersey, the worldwide macho gesture of goal-scorer pride.

Of course, by football regulations, that cost him a yellow card, making him vulnerable to suspension for Sunday’s final against Spain.

Still, Balotelli was an impressive sight, a son of Ghanaian immigrants named Barwuah, adopted at 18 by an Italian family, displaying his rippling muscles.

“If he scores another goal, they’ll put up a statue of him in Florence,” somebody said.

“Il David Nero,” somebody added respectfully in Italian. The Black David.

The growth of Balotelli in this tournament has been impressive, a tribute to the man himself and also to Coach Cesare Prandelli, who seems to treat him with calm dignity, neither despairing nor fawning. In the quarterfinals, Prandelli sent Balotelli out first for the penalty kicks against England, and the big guy whacked one past his Man City teammate Joe Hart. If the coach thought he belonged out there….

On Thursday we gathered for the semifinal at Leo’s Latticini, also known as Mama’s, at 46-02 104th St., about a mile south and west of the ballpark I prefer to call New Shea.

Ron Blum is a football-soccer expert for the Associated Press; he takes his family to Verona and La Scala every year. I have been an Italy admirer since my first family trip decades ago. And Omar Minaya, son of the Dominican Republic, grew up in the traditionally Italian neighborhood of Corona, dropping into Mama’s when he could afford a sandwich or a biscotto. Later he played two seasons of pro baseball in Italy, and loves to speak the language.

Minaya, who now lives in leafy New Jersey, and works in the front office of the San Diego Padres, was on a short home visit for his son's graduation. He remains the favorite son of Mama’s, which has two outlets in the Mets’ ballpark. When he worked nearby, he often ducked over to Mama’s for a snack, a chat, a World Cup match. Anybody who still has a home neighborhood is a lucky person.

Although he left after the disastrous season of 2010, this is the kind of guy Omar Minaya is: last year he escorted his successor, Sandy Alderson, to Mama’s –“just to show him the neighborhood, you know,” Minaya explained on Thursday.

Mama’s remains the way it has for seven decades, with inevitable changes. The matriarch, Nancy DeBenedettis, passed late in 2009 at the age of 90, but her name lives on.

Get this: the official city street sign on the block now says: Mama’s Way.

And get this: Public School 16, a few blocks away, has been officially renamed. The Nancy DeBenedettis School.  (Read more here about her inspiring American life.)

“I get tears in my eyes when I talk about it,” said Irene DeBenedettis, one of three sisters who operate the little empire on Mama’s Way.

She was showing me a montage in the window, photos of friends and celebrities who have visited Mama’s. (Half a decade ago, Mario Batali, the celebrity chef, paid the huge compliment of dropping in. (“Mama asked him, ‘Who does your hair?’” Irene said, referring to his iconic ponytail. )

Inside, we were fussed over by Marie DeBenedettis and Carmela Lamorgese, Mama’s two other daughters, and we saw Carmela’s daughter, Marie DiFeo, and her baby, Gina DiFeo, born last Sept. 23, and was wearing an Italia shirt for the Germany match. The staff, from far-flung provinces of Italy, bustled in with cheese, salami, olives, bread, plus pasta with absolutely delicious broccoli rabé, followed by roast beef and potatoes and salad. There might have been a bit of wine, too. Then came the desserts and the coffee.

Before the match, we stood and sang the Italian anthem, Il Canto degli Italiani (The Song of the Italians), the most merry anthem in the world. Perhaps we were not as passionate as Gigi Buffon, the Azzurri portiere, who bellows the anthem with his eyes closed, but we tried. Then we remained standing for the German anthem. Oranzo Lamorgese, Gina’s grandfather, is originally from Bari but lived and worked in Hamburg and Dusseldorf for a decade and played semi-pro soccer there. He spoke with great respect for modern Germany – and its football squad.

At halftime, Marie DeBenedettis came back and said their deli next door just had a customer – Dwight Gooden himself, buying a hero sandwich. She had invited him to sit with us, but Doc said he was double-parked and didn’t want to get a ticket.

We watched as Prandelli wisely removed Balotelli, to protect him from a second yellow card, to preserve him for the final as the Azzurri outlasted Germany, 2-1, to advance safely to the finals. Italy has long produced artful midfielders and defenders who specialize in the defensive catenaccio, the bolt. But now it has a force up front, a striker who is growing in size and tactics, match by match.

The three sisters plied the Italophiles named Minaya, Blum and Vecsey with enough love and goodies to last us until Sunday’s final. Mille grazie, amiche mie.

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Oranzo Lamorgese and Gina Watch Balotelli Photos by George Vecsey
 


Comments

06/29/2012 12:28pm

this is great. during the last world cup, i was flying to meet my son in germany and go to italy. i was reading the times and happened upon an article describing a meal at mama's during one of italy's matches. these are my cousins, and it was pretty amazing to read the story. i shared the meal vicariously and sweled w/ pride for mama's and azzure. nick lotito atl.

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George Vecsey
06/29/2012 1:11pm

hai una brava famiglia...GV

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Alan Rubin
06/29/2012 10:45pm

George

You should develop a Zagat style guide to ethnic soccer deli’s, pub’s and family restaurants with cable TV for all of us to enjoy. You make watching world soccer at home seem like a punishment.


I was pleasantly surprised that the motel in Cape May, NJ where my family was staying for a few days had ESPN. I watched both games with my fourteen year old grandson having lunch in my room, a far cry from your Astoria experience. I cannot speak for Hanson, but I’m releasing you from the commitment to keep me updated as I fould access to the games.


As you had indicated, both of Mario’s goals were beauties as were the passes that set them up. The cross for the first one was perfect as it was too far for the goalie to come out and just enough behind the defender for Mario to step up for the header.


He showed good poise on the second goal in that he was alone but did not rush his shot as so often happens.


The crowd noise level in the Italy-Germany game was considerably greater than that of the Spain-Portugal one. Spontaneous fan enthusiasm is exciting whether you are present or watching on TV. This is true for all sports in varying degrees, but it feels particularly unique at soccer matches. I’ve been to baseball, basketball and hockey playoff games, but the excitement paled when compared to the four 1994 World Cup games that my son and I attended at Giant Stadium.


I’m looking forward to your summary of the Spain-Italy final as well of the menu of the day.


Enjoy!!

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George Vecsey
06/30/2012 9:14am

Alan, thanks for the nice words. I may watch the final solo. One really does see the match better. You and John McDermott both reminded me of the exquisite passes that set up the goals. Italy always has the Baggio, the Del Piero, the Pirlo, but I've never quite seen a force like Balotelli. Gotta go watch the Tour. GV

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Robert Hallett
06/30/2012 11:27am

Italians love their football heroes. I had downloaded the audiobook "The Godfather". I was surprised when Michael went in to the Don's office, and told him that Balotelli scored again.

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George Vecsey
06/30/2012 6:38pm

Mario Puzo definitely ahead of his time. GV

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Charles in Absecon
07/01/2012 4:00pm

Born at Mary Immaculate in Jamaica, spent many a wonderful visit at my grandparents' place in Hollis and in Flushing saw Seaver strike out the great Roberto Clemente three times in a 1-0 win on a very cold afternoon with my dad in April 1971.
I don't pretend to have nearly the kind of roots, or longevity, in Queens that many others have, but the roots I do have are strong ones and lead straight to my heart, so this was a really fun read for me.
And how could anyone not like a guy like Omar? Was and continues to be one of my favorites.
As for the little sweetie named Gina, I like her chances to do something special in life. She's got great Queens roots and shares a birthday with Ray Charles and Springsteen!

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George Vecsey
07/01/2012 6:11pm

I was born in the same hospital. Now closed.
Grew up five miles away.
Hope Gina wasn't watching Sunday.
GV

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04/02/2013 11:56am

That a very cute kid! I wish you all the best. Regards from Turkey! Have a nice week.

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04/02/2013 11:57am

I want to read more stories like this one because you really caught my attention with your subject. I am waiting for other articles as interesting as this one. :)

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