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Corn, India-Style, by Marianne Vecsey/ Photograph Ditto
Corn must be a generational thing. I say this because kids don’t seem to tuck into an ear of corn with the same zest that I do. It is a taste from childhood, from a different age.

Of course, we are all to blame for tolerating contemporary year-round corn with the taste and consistency of those packing chips in shipping boxes.

I am talking about real corn, recently picked, grown for taste. We were in upstate New York recently, and my wife bought a dozen ears from a farm stand (12 for $3, leave the money in the plastic box) and the next day it still tasted fresh.

The terrible drought in the Midwest has not affected the corn upstate; the only good news from Hurricane Isaac is that there may be some relief for the back end of the Midwest corn crop.

I can get downright Proustian (in emotion, if not writing style) about the memories of fresh corn -- Á la Recherche du Mais Perdu, as Proust might have titled it, boiled corn, doused in butter and salt, the way my mother served it.

We did not have much money – sometimes did not have a car – and my father worked weekends and holidays. So my mom would make a picnic for five kids and we would walk up the glacial hill to Cunningham Park and she would start a fire and prepare a dozen ears of corn, maybe two dozen. I think my kid brother has the dented pot we used.

My wife, after her 13 or 14 trips to India, turns the corn over a flame, daubs it with one spice or another, in homage to picnics with friends in the hills of Pune.

Either way, I get downright sentimental. 

In its Labor Day editorial, the Times mentions sweet corn as a rite of the end of summer, like taking kids to college or watching the Open tennis.

The writer must be of a certain age (by definition, editorial writers would tend to be.) Somebody younger might rave about holiday treats somewhat more chi-chi. Corn still makes me happy.

 


Comments

Janet Vecsey
09/03/2012 11:36am

No wonder I love corn on the cob so much - but hate the creamed stuff! Don't remember walking to Cunningham as a family, or cooking out there, but that's a memory I'm glad you shared - as the elder brother. Happy Labor Day! Jane

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George Vecsey
09/03/2012 12:36pm

Jane, you were undoubtedly a babe in arms. Happy holiday. George

Reply
09/03/2012 6:32pm

George

Fresh corn is another of your vacation bonuses. Once the season starts, we never buy corn in the supermarkets. As much as we enjoy the Berkshire summer, fall is the best time of the year. The only downside is the loss of fresh corn.

I’m spoiled when it comes to fresh corn. I was told that corn starts to lose it sweetness within one hour after being picked. We planted six rows of corn in our garden and cooked the corn within 10 minutes after it was picked. As great as the local corn is, it falls a little short of our less than one hour specials.

We planted six rows, each set of two germinating about a week apart. This way we had about four weeks of corn. We did this for many years until we moved to 92nd street and Central Park West, where we were not allowed to plant corn in Central Park.

I’m not sure about the generational thing as our grandchildren, 12, 13 and 14, all love it.

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Brian Savin
09/03/2012 7:36pm

WHO in your family roasts farm fresh corn, George? Put them up for adoption! Proper farm corn is dipped in hot water just long enough to be warmed to perfection!

My favorite corn farmer -- and friend -- during the last four decades is a man named George Dean, from Falls Village , Connecticut. He died less than two weeks ago in a sudden re-eruption of cancer. I cried on hearing the news and cried again when speaking to his wonderful, hardworking wife. George's father moved the family from our town in the 1930's because they were snowed in, in the ravine they occupied, for more than three months and nearly starved. His now successful boys weren't interested in the farm to this point, but a miracle happened. They decided their mother needed the farm, they knew what it meant to their father, and they knew they needed to support her. Dean's Farm Stand will return to Falls Village, Route 63, next year, too. The best corn in the world (and everything else). Bless them!

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George Vecsey
09/04/2012 9:27am

sure, boiled corn is great -- I don't even care about butter or salt.
But India-style is a taste all its own, combination of corn and spices.
Takes us back to Pune.
GV.

Reply
09/04/2012 12:44pm

Can you share the recipe?

Ed from Corona
09/05/2012 10:37am

So good. Been eating flame cooked corn off the stove top for years since my wife hails from Gujarat. Guess it's an Indian thing that's become a Queens thing...By the way, Eggplant on the flame is also worthy of a holiday...hmmm...Diwali?

George Vecsey
09/05/2012 12:47pm

My wife says:
1. fresh corn, husked.
2. open flame.
3. tongs
4. turn, safely, til browned (see photo)
5. brush with chili lime seasoning -- or butter and salt -- or olive oil. (Or au nature) I've been known to daub some hummus on it.
It is definitely an India thing. My wife still talks about a picnic on a hill above Pune....
eggplant sounds good that way (or any way)
GV

Charles in Absecon
09/04/2012 2:51am

I had a farmer's market about 3 miles from me that always had the absolute best locally grown corn.
It would show up right around the Fourth of July and its end would be looming soon by about now.
But for those couple of months ... it's a mircale I just never ingested the cob itself or lost a finger or two in the mauling (that's what it was, a mauuling).
I was a regular, with my canvas sacks ready to be filled.
That farm stand closed and though there are others about me, their sweet Jersey corn just isn't as sweet or as Jersey as that of my former dealer.
But I remember how good the really good stuff is.
Funniest thing is, I'm not any kind of corn lover. Not even close.
But a really nice piece of corn on the cob, oh, my.
And you're right about the nostalgia value, too.
So many day-trips and week- and two-week vacations to the shore when I was a kid ended with a stop at just such a farmstand to bring home some of that great corn on the cob for a backyard dinner that night.
I'd give more than $3 to have either some of that corn or some of those days again.

Reply
09/07/2012 7:26am

Recent company recommended rubbing corn with a lemon slice. Very interesting combination.

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bruce picken
09/06/2012 10:02pm

george,

not much rain this spring and summer up here in the people's republic of canuckistan. however, the corn has been phenomenal. when i first went to live in japan in 1993, i bought corn on the cob from a street vendor in the namba section of osaka. bit into and spat it out. they'd smeared soy sauce all over it which was common to them, but not to me.....expensive as hell too in the stores. i picked up two attached corn in a supermarket. looked at the price (198 yen or about $2.20 cdn then) and thought it expensive, but was curious. got the cashier and it was EACH. i let her keep them....

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George Vecsey
09/07/2012 12:06pm

Bruce: We always hear about the $100-melon, or was it the $1,000 melon. On the other hand, our friend Akie took us to a noodle shop near Ginza and I had more delicious shrimp and noodles than I could handle for $10 or $12. Go figure.

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Ed Martin
09/07/2012 9:28pm

sounds so good I will buy some local Quebec corn tomorrow. Eat your heart out Mark Bittman, George is in business!

Reply
09/08/2012 11:31am

My Grandpa Peter used to call store corn "cow corn," because it was so bad he wouldn't feed it to cows. He grew corn in the garden behind his restaurant in Beverly, Massachusetts, which was on a highway entrance so had some lawn to fill the contours.

Lately I have been eating a lot of white corn. I put the hot ears in a Ziploc bag with some olive oil, sea salt, basil, oregano, and freshly ground black pepper. The bag lets me evenly distribute the seasonings. I save the bag and use it again for coating red peppers, eggplant, peeled garlic cloves, and zucchini before roasting.

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George Vecsey
09/08/2012 1:50pm

My kid brother lives next to a corn field upstate. I learned on the last visit that the farmer plants cow corn but puts a ring of eating corn around the outside -- and tells neighbors to help themselves. People are nice in the country.
GV

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Ed Martin
09/12/2012 6:58pm

Had ears of sweet corn tonite Vecsey style, on grill, with lime, butter and a pinch of chili. Delicious! I grilled about 20 minutes and they browned a bit, not as much as pictured, but cooked., tender and juicy. My grill may be further from the flames. Peggy and I send thanks to your wife and to you.

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George Vecsey
09/14/2012 8:35am

With my known inability to cook, I never thought I'd be the conduit for anything culinary. Lately I've been watching my wife create stuff, but I don't think osmosis works.
Enjoy, GV

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ed
09/14/2012 12:52pm

I took it up a couple of years ago and enjoy it- an old dog who likes food learned a new trick. we take turns now, one cooks, the other cleans up. Who can tell George, it may be a second career, writing a blog as "the sports minimalist". Possibly replacing the Times' Mark Bittman.

Reply
09/16/2012 11:56am

George

Retirement often launches new careers. Who knows what sharing recipes might lead to. If Mark Bittman starts writing about soccer, you can take Ed's suggestion and add a food component to your blog.

Ed

There is tremendous joy in cooking. I find that the longer it takes to prepare a meal, the slower one tends to eat it. Part of the enjoyment is to linger over the fruits, or meat, of your labor.

My cooking career began my junior year in college. I had moved into an apartment off campus and my first roommate announced that he would not cook. Great, he agreed to do all the dishes. I purchased a cookbook and never worried about how many pots and pans that I used.

Today, my wife and I share the cooking, but I now do the dishes most of the time.

My old roommate was not part of our marriage contract.

My friend who specializes in makeing yeast products, beer and bread, recently showed me how to make bread. It is very easy and it is the best bread that we have tasted. We rarely buy from the local bakers anymore, but the down side is that you eat too much.

The dough bakes in a 5quart cast iron pot at 475 F for about three quarters of an hour. Total preparation time spread out over two days is an hour, not counting oven time.

If anyone is interested, I can send George the information, along with a photo that looks good enough to eat, to post. Or I can send it by email.

Reply
George Vecsey
09/16/2012 2:55pm

I am in awe of people who cook. Our son can cook; so can our son-in-law. I wash dishes and run to the pantry downstairs. To each, according to his ability...
I'd be glad to put the photo and info on the site. Please send the digital photo to my NYT address:
geovec@nytimes.com
GV




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